NO HOT WATER???

Can you imagine going without hot water for 40 days? Here in Bishkek every May the city shuts off the hot water supply. So I woke up this morning with no hot water for a shower and thought, "Damn..." The city still uses the old Soviet system, providing hot and cold water to its' residents. Most people don't have water heaters and those that do have small electric boilers installed on the wall in their bathrooms that provide at least a short warm shower. I spent most of the evening staring at the Russian manual for my newly installed electric heater, wine glass in one hand, screwdriver in the other, trying to get the right combination of valves to make the damn thing work. It was entirely frustrating! After I thought I had it, I spent the next 30 minutes standing in the doorway of my bathroom, wineglass in hand, willing the temperature gauge to move. Boy was I proud of myself when I figured it out! Never mind the 15 foot electric cord surge protector trailing from hot steamy bathroom to the nearest outlet in the hallway nor the empty wine bottle on the kitchen counter...

THAILAND!!!

I was always taught that if I didn't have anything nice to say, not to say anything at all. The past two months have brought several frustrating challenges- nothing that was very fun or exciting to blog about. Hence, no posts for two months. However, Karl and I just took a much deserved vacation to Thailand and it was definitely blog worthy!
After much flip-flopping on vacation destinations, we finally settled on Krabi, Thailand. Several things added to the frustration of choosing a place for spring break including where we could fly from Bishkek within 24 hours and what city has a medical facility deemed a "center of medical excellence" by my health insurance company. For those who don't know, I had a Basal Cell Carcinoma removed from my shoulder 3 days before I moved to Bishkek, last August. Basal Cell Carcinoma is the most common and least deadly form of skin cancer. However, I had BCC on my shoulder for at least 7 years (it had been misdiagnosed twice). So I had it removed and now I have a crazy scar on my shoulder. For those of you who knew me in high school, you'll probably remember me saying several times that I would end up with skin cancer someday, and sure enough, I did. Thankfully it has been minor and relatively easily removed. So I decided I wanted a skin exam and the closest dermatologist recommended by my insurance company was in Vienna or Munich. Neither place is easy to get to from here (and neither place has a tropical beach and toasty temperatures in March), so I asked around. I ended up at a "5 star" hospital in Bangkok that has its own hotel and a McDonald's and a Starbucks in the lobby. Of course I scheduled my appointment for the last few days of vacation because I knew if I ended up with stitches I wouldn't be able to lay on the beach or snorkel or swim (how ridiculous am I?). So we spent the first week in Krabi...
Krabi, Thailand is on the Andaman Coast south of Phuket. It is still relatively un-touristy. The people in Thailand are so incredibly friendly, always beaming such a beautiful smile. The place is so unimaginably gorgeous that it would be hard not to be happy everyday. We spent our days lying on the beach (in the shade!) and swimming in emerald waters. We also took a camping trip with Elizabeth, Sun, and Noah of Andaman Camp and Cruise. They were fabulous people and we had a wonderful trip. We snorkeled and explored our nearly private island, as well as island hopped in their longtail boat. We hiked with monks and monkeys! I only regret we couldn't stay longer.
After a week at the beach we spent the following 3 days in Bangkok. I think the only think that would bring me back to Bangkok is the shopping! Other than that, it's just a ridiculously crowded city with people constantly trying to swindle foreigners. The Red Shirt protests were just starting when we arrived, so it didn't really affect our trip much. We traveled by skytrain, taxi, tuk-tuk (motorized tri-cycles), river boat, and canal boat. Transportation was fun and exciting throughout the city!
We met a hilarious taxi driver who asked us in broken English what the phrase "What's eating you?" meant. He said someone had asked him that the other day and he thought the guy was asking what he wanted to eat. He replied to the man, "Thanks, I already ate, but I guess you can take me to get some food!" Then he started repeating the saying to other English speaking customers, but he got the words mixed up and was asking them "What are you eating?" We explained it to him and he thought it was the funniest thing he'd ever heard.
The medical care at the hospital I went to was exceptional as well. They had a valet to open the taxi door and a greeter inside who welcomed you to the hospital and escorted you to the correct place for your appointment. It turns out they did want to biopsy a mole, so I left with 7 stitches and a crowded mind. I received the results of the test about a week later. It turns out it was premelonoma and it had been completely removed from the biopsy. I'm glad I went when I did.
As Elizabeth promised, although nothing could make us want to leave Krabi, a few days in Bangkok were enough to make us happy to go home. The experiences we had in Thailand are completely unique and one day we hope to find ourselves there again.

Still Waiting...

So we still don't know anything more about the possible base closure. The media here talks as if it is absolutely closing, but there has been no official eviction notice. If and when the notice is served, the US will have 180 days to shut down the base. Parliament was supposed to vote this week on the closure, however they have decided to delay the vote until Russia fronts $450 million of the promised loan package. This is interesting since up until now both Russia and Kyrgyzstan have stated that the $2 billion loan package offered by Russia is merely coincidence with the decision to close the base...ya right.

Is the Adventure Over???

I was taking a break from the relentless testing schedule 0f my poor 7 year old students when my house of cards began to fall... I saw a headline on Yahoo stating that the Kyrgyzstan government was officially closing the base here in Bishkek. It's only been rumor thus far, but this time it sounds like it could be for real. The locals at my school informed me that regular TV programming was interrupted last night and the president came on to make the announcement. The president made the announcement from Moscow, not from Kyrgyzstan, giving the local media one more thing to ridicule him for. He has a history of telling one foreign dignitary one story and another a completely contradictory story, thus explaining Gen. Patraeus being told 2 weeks ago here in Bishkek that there were no ongoing negotiations with Russia and no plans to close the base. Who knows??? Russia is offering a 2 billion dollar loan package to the Kyrgyz government if they will oust the Americans. Since the company I work for pulled a fast one on me when I was hired, that means if Karl goes, I go. So, in short, now we wait. Will this be just a tile or two falling off our roof? Or will our cozy Soviet shoebox all come tumbling down...

(Not) Home for the Holidays...

As winter break loomed ever closer, I began to feel apprehensive about my upcoming nearly month long hiatus from teaching. Each and every one of my foreign co-workers was preparing to depart for one fabulous destination or another. They went home to the states or to Newcastle, England. They went to India and Sri Lanka, staying in monasteries and sat around absorbing the scorching sun rays on a beach that had nearly been swept away by the tsunami a few years back. I had been warned- staying in Bishkek for a long, dark, lonely holiday season would surely push me over the edge. But I didn't listen...

Karl was actually home for a whole week at the beginning of the break. We went out with our friends to celebrate my birthday and the beginning of a well-deserved break from school. We ate, drank, and danced to local singers performing songs from Bon Jovi, Elvis, and even Sinatra. After we closed down the restaurant we went bowling and then finished our night with a pizza from Doka at 3am. We spent our days haggling with vendors over 50 som (about $1.15) for felt slippers with elf-like pointy toes, yurt ornaments, and tall traditional felt hats worn by elder males in Kyrgyz culture. As Christmas approached, more lights, decorated trees, and snowmen appeared in the windows of local businesses. The busses sparkled with tinsle and the drivers donned red Santa hats and robes. The main square downtown displayed a tremendous Christmas tree dressed to the nines. Several Father Frosts and Princess Frosts (their version of Santa, who carries a staff and has no belly, and his daughter) roamed the square looking to make a few som by posing for pictures. There were a few cows as well, walking around on their hind legs, since 2009 is the year of the Ox. I even witnessed Father Frost doing the Chicken Dance with a group of children (and got it on video of course! Stay tuned...). Add all of this to the crisp white snow that managed to blanket all of the trash that is typically strewn about the city and it made for an unforgettable Christmas. Not bad for a predominantly Muslim country!

In Kyrgyzstan it seems as though they begin celebrating the holidays a week or two before December 25th. Then, as the year barrels towards New Year's eve, fireworks become a nightly occurance. I spent New Year's eve with my local friend and her family. By the time midnight came around, the noise outside was deafening. Full-blown commercial type fireworks blossomed in every direction. Roman candles and other fireworks were being shot off balconies. Here, there are no restrictions! It was like being caught in the middle of an amazingly beautiful war. The New Year's celebrations morph into the "old" Orthodox Christmas on the 7th on January, which then rolls into the "old" New Year on the 13th of January. Here, no one could blame me for keeping my Christmas tree up until mid January!

Now it's back to business. Though barely discernable, the days are getting longer and warmer. It's actually raining as opposed to snowing as I write this. The winter here has been nothing compared to the frigidness of Montana. I actually had a taxi driver tell me my Russian was good last night! What a joke! I guess my "taxi cab Russian" is understandable. Karl and I hope that everyone had a blessed and relaxing holiday season. We are currently planning our vacation for the end of March. We are still undecided on where to go. We'll figure it out eventually. We always do.

Happy Turkey Day!

I just wanted to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. We just got back from a delicious dinner at my co-worker's house. We actually found a frozen Turkey, straight from the US. The markets seem to stock a couple of them just in case any Americans want to buy one. The meal was fabulous! It tasted just like home. Although this will be my first Thanksgiving without football or a parade in as long as I can remember, it was just as fabulous as any other. Karl was actually able to take a few hours off of work to celebrate with us. He's back at work now, and since T-day is a true American holiday, I have work tomorrow as well. The tryptophan is kicking in so I better get to bed. The closest "true" family we have may be 10,000 miles away, but my school family makes us feel right at home.

Turkish Delight

How do you change perception? As an American living outside the US, you become acutely aware of foreigners opinions of Americans. Other than being taken advantage of every day by vendors that know you have money because you are a westerner, I haven't personally experienced any ill feelings towards us for being American. Actually, it's the opposite. Most people are interested by us or at least indifferent. When we pass kids in the street or on the bus and they notice us speaking English, they smile, whisper
among themselves, then start speaking any English words they know. A little girl in my building knows I speak English, and every time she see's me she says, "Hello." I think that's the only word she knows because I get a blank stare when I say, "Hello! How are you?" I've often heard that when traveling abroad Americans find it easier to lie and say they are Canadian rather than take the chance of upsetting people by admitting they are American. I'm not one to walk on eggshells and lie about where I'm from. I'm proud to be from the U.S. and I don't think I'm helping anyone by concealing by nationality. Generally speaking, the world has a less than favorable opinion of Americans. But how do we change that? I think the only way to change someone's perception of Americans is for that person to meet Americans and talk with them and draw the conclusion that we aren't, as a rule, rude, rich, and righteous.

Hopefully, Karl and I changed some perceptions on our recent vacation in Antalya, Turkey. Last month we took our first, much needed vacation. Neither of us knew what to expect, vacationing in a country that borders both Iraq and Iran. We never once felt unwelcome or disliked for being American. It was quite the opposite. I'd never felt so welcome in an unfamiliar place as I did in Antalya, Turkey.

The Turkish people are so warm and friendly and open to people from all over the world. Antalya is a city on the Mediterranean Sea that hosts mostly vacationing Europeans. We went at the start of the low season, but the weather was as warm as the people. I have to admit, our first dinner in Turkey was at McDonald's. But every other detail of our trip was truly Turkish. The landscape was breath-taking; mountains covered with pine and pomegranates reaching to the sky, the salty sea with water as clear as glass. We swam in water and walked down roads that people walked on in 200 B.C. Any shop we walked into, the shopkeepers would share apple, pomegranate, or black tea with us and would invite us to sit and talk. This was not done as a sales tactic. The people honestly just enjoy speaking with you and they want to be hospitable. They would share their favorite places with us and give us directions to find them. Then we'd be invited back the next day to share what we thought of their advice. When we were driving around lost (which was pretty much every day) we'd stop and ask other drivers for directions. Several people just motioned us to follow them and they'd lead us to our destination. Antalya doesn't get many American tourists. It's obviously far from home and not even on the radar as far as typical vacation destinations. But it should be. I don't feel that I have adequate words to describe the beauty of the people or the location. But I do have pictures and video! And lots of it. I hope you enjoy it.

Click here to see more pictures of our Turkey trip!