As winter break loomed ever closer, I began to feel apprehensive about my upcoming nearly month long hiatus from teaching. Each and every one of my foreign co-workers was preparing to depart for one fabulous destination or another. They went home to the states or to Newcastle, England. They went to India and Sri Lanka, staying in monasteries and sat around absorbing the scorching sun rays on a beach that had nearly been swept away by the tsunami a few years back. I had been warned- staying in Bishkek for a long, dark, lonely holiday season would surely push me over the edge. But I didn't listen...
Karl was actually home for a whole week at the beginning of the break. We went out with our friends to celebrate my birthday and the beginning of a well-deserved break from school. We ate, drank, and danced to local singers performing songs from Bon Jovi, Elvis, and even Sinatra. After we closed down the restaurant we went bowling and then finished our night with a pizza from Doka at 3am. We spent our days haggling with vendors over 50 som (about $1.15) for felt slippers with elf-like pointy toes, yurt ornaments, and tall traditional felt hats worn by elder males in Kyrgyz culture. As Christmas approached, more lights, decorated trees, and snowmen appeared in the windows of local businesses. The busses sparkled with tinsle and the drivers donned red Santa hats and robes. The main square downtown displayed a tremendous Christmas tree dressed to the nines. Several Father Frosts and Princess Frosts (their version of Santa, who carries a staff and has no belly, and his daughter) roamed the square looking to make a few som by posing for pictures. There were a few cows as well, walking around on their hind legs, since 2009 is the year of the Ox. I even witnessed Father Frost doing the Chicken Dance with a group of children (and got it on video of course! Stay tuned...). Add all of this to the crisp white snow that managed to blanket all of the trash that is typically strewn about the city and it made for an unforgettable Christmas. Not bad for a predominantly Muslim country!
In Kyrgyzstan it seems as though they begin celebrating the holidays a week or two before December 25th. Then, as the year barrels towards New Year's eve, fireworks become a nightly occurance. I spent New Year's eve with my local friend and her family. By the time midnight came around, the noise outside was deafening. Full-blown commercial type fireworks blossomed in every direction. Roman candles and other fireworks were being shot off balconies. Here, there are no restrictions! It was like being caught in the middle of an amazingly beautiful war. The New Year's celebrations morph into the "old" Orthodox Christmas on the 7th on January, which then rolls into the "old" New Year on the 13th of January. Here, no one could blame me for keeping my Christmas tree up until mid January!
Now it's back to business. Though barely discernable, the days are getting longer and warmer. It's actually raining as opposed to snowing as I write this. The winter here has been nothing compared to the frigidness of Montana. I actually had a taxi driver tell me my Russian was good last night! What a joke! I guess my "taxi cab Russian" is understandable. Karl and I hope that everyone had a blessed and relaxing holiday season. We are currently planning our vacation for the end of March. We are still undecided on where to go. We'll figure it out eventually. We always do.
